Crucial Downpipe Install!

[jedimaster]

OK, so here's what my downpipe install was like. I was really pleased with the quality of the piece.

Here's what it looks like:

http://premium1.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi//crucialdownpipe001.jpg

Here's a couple of shots of the flanges:

http://premium1.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi//crucialdownpipe002.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi//crucialdownpipe003.jpg

http://premium1.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi//crucialdownpipe004.jpg

Soooo much better looking in person- a real shame to have to put it on the car and get it dirty!

OK, so now to the install part:

This is the stock setup with upper heatshield removed:

http://premium1.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi//crucialdownpipe005.jpg

Basically, you remove the 5 bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo, along with one that bolts the downpipe to the transmission and the two that bolt the downpipe to the midpipe.

That's a total of 8 bolts- should be easy, but with 9600 miles on the car along with the typical Subaru 500 pound gorillas putting our cars together, a couple shots of WD40 were necessary to get the dern things loose.

Here's a shot of the stock and Crucial downpipes together- notice that the Crucial is teh Sexay!

http://premium1.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi//crucialdownpipe006.jpg

Here they are side by side again- notice that the stocker has a blank plate, whereas the Crucial has not only the plate not as a blank, but also a divorced wastegate!

http://premium1.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi//crucialdownpipe007.jpg

Here's the real culprit on the stocker, the catalytic convertor- very restricive!

http://premium1.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi//crucialdownpipe008.jpg

[jsh139]

I would suggest using PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench rather than WD-40. Those downpipe to turbo bolts have a nasty habit of seizing, even on a car with very little mileage. Ask me how I know :mad:

[jedimaster]

How do you know? :lol: WD40 did the trick, but you're right there are better solutions.

[jsh139]

After an hour of cranking on the one hidden bolt with various wrenches and sockets, with it soaked in WD40, and half rounded off I decided to try a different approach.

I couldn't get anything to seat properly on the bolt. Maybe the XT/LGT are different, but the nut is just too damn close to the DP, and all my sockets were too thick-walled. Except my 1/4" drive ones. But, as you can imagine, a 1/4" drive ratchet aint gonna do much to get off the nuts that the 500 lb gorilla at Fuji Heavy puts on ;) So, with tired and bloody hands (I left the intercooler on and cut the **** out of them [this was before I was smart enough to buy some mechanics gloves]) I found a pipe to put on the end of the 1/4" drive ratchet and finally broke the damn thing free. I'm just lucky I didn't shear the stud off the turbo. :p

Downpipe install - ~4 hours. If I could do it over again, 2 1/2 hours, tops.

Lesson learned, have the right tools for the job :)

[eatV8]

Anyone who is doing any installs, whether it be suspension, exhaust, etc PB blaster is a must!

[jedimaster]

I think I used an open end wrench for that particular nut.

[Patagonian GT]

Soak them all with PB Blaster, have a beer, than I use an 18" breaker bar with 4" and 6" extensions where needed and 1/2" drive six point impact sockets. The LGT has a bit more room to work than an STi, that's for sure. We have it down to about two hours for the LGT/OBXT (full length DP), but we get to cheat since we use Steve's lift :lol:

Whatever you do....avoid the famous last words..... "this is going easy so far". Guaranteed if you say that, the next bolt you come to will kick you in the balls. :p

[Drift Monkey]

PB Blaster > Liquid Wrench > WD40

[Ledfoot]

When you remove the catted stock DP and replace it, what happens when I have to take the car in every other year for emissions?

[Patagonian GT]

the stock DP is two piece....one cat in each. Replacing the short section off the turbo still leaves one rather efficient cat further away from the turbo. The close-coupled cat is for cold start emissions - as long as you have the stock third cat in place and bring the car in warmed up, you will pass a sniffer test.

[jedimaster]

the stock DP is two piece....one cat in each. Replacing the short section off the turbo still leaves one rather efficient cat further away from the turbo. The close-coupled cat is for cold start emissions - as long as you have the stock third cat in place and bring the car in warmed up, you will pass a sniffer test.
That's good news as this will be the first year I try to pass in NY. I'll take it out for a nice spin before the inspection :D

[jsh139]

I think I used an open end wrench for that particular nut.
Oh, I got an open end on it just fine. But, it wasn't long enough to get the needed leverage to break the nut free. Had I used PB Blaster, I'm confident the open end would have been enough.

[Drift Monkey]

DM is catless in TX FTW! ;)

[Ledfoot]

the stock DP is two piece....one cat in each. Replacing the short section off the turbo still leaves one rather efficient cat further away from the turbo. The close-coupled cat is for cold start emissions - as long as you have the stock third cat in place and bring the car in warmed up, you will pass a sniffer test.

Excellent! :tup: Thanks for the info man! This is really my first delve into modifying a turbo car and I'm trying to avoid causing myself too many headaches. It's been a little bit of a trip figuring out what I can upgrade and what is available thus far.

[jedimaster]

Oh, I got an open end on it just fine. But, it wasn't long enough to get the needed leverage to break the nut free. Had I used PB Blaster, I'm confident the open end would have been enough.
I just used my special 250 fat pounds of force :lol:

[jsh139]

I just used my special 250 fat pounds of force :lol:
:rofl:

[turbo2nr]

+1 for the Crucial hash pipe. Mine fit perfect on an auto!!

Thanks J.



Few more bolts and you could have the turbo and up-pipe off.

Took me 1hr 15mins to do turbo/DP and IC, but I have done it eleventy-thousand XXs. I ripped out one stud on the back or OEM turbine housing, so what. I'll use a new bolt.

On EVERY subaru, there is one bastard nut.

When swapping a turbo like ours, being bolted to the IC, I loosened my compressor housing to have a passive fit at the mating surfaces of the flanges.

Don't assume that the turbo covers are "clocked" 100% perfect, and they even may have loose nutz out of the box! Go ahead and loosen both covers to re-clock.... help install and performace.

Mark it, then remove turbo and tighten, re-install for the final time with sealant, etc.

I did this without the oil drain tube on the first time around to make it an easy fit.


Regarding the oil drain tube, I NEVER reuse the spring loaded clip on the rubber hose. The turbo drain tube has a decent bump around it, and it's a very tight seal anyway. I only leave one on the tube...whichever one stays when I yank up the turbo.


When using new gaskets....run it a while, then re-torque the turbine nozzle bolts to make sure you are getting all you paid for.

[jedimaster]

Turbo2nr- does Crucial still make a third cat eliminator pipe? I have a state inspection in July, but would love to have a pipe like that to swap in and out during inspection time.

[turbo2nr]

Make one?, if Jeremy doesn't have one.

Knock out a stock cat, buy cheap from someone.

I would also like to do this.

I have one more cat left. Drag racing season is here, I wanna try a little C-16 in my wife's car and crank it up. Gotta get it out for the lead.

[TSi+WRX]

Turbo2nr- does Crucial still make a third cat eliminator pipe? I have a state inspection in July, but would love to have a pipe like that to swap in and out during inspection time.

^ In so far as I know, Jeremy is still doing it. :tup: Not sure about available/ready stock, though.

I've been thinking about one - mainly as I think after-fires are cool :o , and I'd also like a little more pop and burble from my exhaust on the over-run, too. :cool: :lol: I'm more than likely not going to gain much power from it as my tune won't be optimized for that.

The two things that keep hanging me up are:

(1) The wifey - all of my previous rides were completely cat-less, and I know she hates that smell. I've promised to keep Winky somewhat civil for her, so I'd feel bad in this respect.

(2) Equipment violations - I live in a densely urban area, and I'll see LEOs on my tail (not to pull me over, just that they're in-traffic with me) about twice a week or so..... I'd hate to accidentally fireball and get an equipment violation ticket, even if it's just a "fix it" warning (one reason that I rig my countermeasures as I have done is so that I avoid these annoying circumstances, to me, "time is money"). :(


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BTW: jedi - totally off-topic, but have you read Stephen King's _Cell_ yet? I just picked it up at the library earlier this week, and I'm about half-way through (which is pretty good for me, as I'm a slow reader, and also only get time to read right before I turn-in for the night), and I'm totally hooked on it. It's not quite about "zombies" in the traditional sense, but I think you'll like it too. :)

[Drift Monkey]

You yanks always tickle me with your inspection and cat worries...:lol:

[jedimaster]

BTW: jedi - totally off-topic, but have you read Stephen King's _Cell_ yet? I just picked it up at the library earlier this week, and I'm about half-way through (which is pretty good for me, as I'm a slow reader, and also only get time to read right before I turn-in for the night), and I'm totally hooked on it. It's not quite about "zombies" in the traditional sense, but I think you'll like it too. :)
Hey, nope I haven't. Maybe over the summer- my Grad work will be done and I might actually have time for pleasure reading!:)

[TSi+WRX]

^ Gotcha. :) Best of luck on finishing your school stuff! :)

[jedimaster]

Thanks dude!

[kagenmateer]

So, I want to make sure I've got this straight. I've been planning on buying a catted DP and having that be the only cat...like this one (just an example)

http://legacygt.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=82&cat=13&page=1

Correct me if I'm wrong; I can/should get something like the Crucial shorty DP and there will still be a section (midpipe?) with a stock cat in it.

I have the exhaust pictured in the attachment and am confused as to what exactly the pipe with the resonator in it is. That is the midpipe, no? There is another section of midpipe just after the DP? I guess my question is, if I buy that crucial DP (I like this particular one with the ceramic), will there still be a stock cat after the turbo. I'm having a hard time putting the complete system together in my head. IIRC, it goes: header/manifold, UP, DP, mid-pipe, mid-pipe, y-pipe, cans. ??!!

Going with the shorty DP and stock mid will look decent for visual inspection?

What I really need is a diagram of the exhaust system...the one in my head has holes.

[kagenmateer]

Here's the picture in my head...how far off am I? Should this be done better? If I'm planning for stage II AP, should I do all Crucial for "crucial" maps? I'm thoroughly confused. HELP!! :lol: :o

[Bones]

the stock DP is two piece....one cat in each. Replacing the short section off the turbo still leaves one rather efficient cat further away from the turbo. The close-coupled cat is for cold start emissions - as long as you have the stock third cat in place and bring the car in warmed up, you will pass a sniffer test.

I thought they do it through the obdII port now? That's how my last test was anyways.

[havanisda]

I thought they do it through the obdII port now? That's how my last test was anyways.It varies state by state and maybe even by county now.

[TSi+WRX]

Here's the picture in my head...how far off am I? Should this be done better? If I'm planning for stage II AP, should I do all Crucial for "crucial" maps? I'm thoroughly confused. HELP!! :lol: :o

That's a good diagram, and no, you don't need a special map, based on your proposal.

Back in the days, Cobb's requirement for "Stage II" OTS mapping was that the first of the stock post-turbo cat. was removed (and the pre-turbo cat. removed for "safety"). Although this will still cap power, due to one of the post-turbo cats still remaining, it was deemed "safe," but simply not optimized (for which Cobb recommended, at "Stage II," OTS, that the *entire* post-turbo exhaust tract be totally de-catted) for power delivery.

The preservation of the last of the three factory post-turbo cat. will allow you to pass most visual inspections without trouble - however, this is highly dependent on the knowledge-level of the technician. While both the UP cat. as well as the first of the post-turbo cats is very hard to visualize (especially if you were to be able to retain factory heat-shields), a well-knowledged tech can and will notice their absence. But the chances of a tech knowing? that's what you're playing with.

In terms of the OBD-II check, you should fulfill all readiness factors, provided that you have some form of aftermarket EM.

In terms of a "sniffer" check, off-idle, with a good tune, having the last factory cat. in-place or a good-quality aftermarket high-flow cat. will insure that you pass with no concerns.

[UTwrestler22]

How do i see if a catless dp is legal in my state? Also, is it risky to mess with the bill of sale if buying from a pvt owner? Would the dmv even notice or care?

[Dookie]

Check with your local smog shops, they should know if it's legal or not. DMV will only care if you received your Cert for passing the smog test.

[UTwrestler22]

Aaaaand bill of sale? Anyone?

[TSi+WRX]

Truthfully, your local car-enthusiast community will know best, and that's where you really need to take this particular set of question of yours.

Every state - and even locale - is different, and your local enthusiasts will be the ones who will have the pulse of things.

I'll use myself as an example:

In Ohio, only certain metro areas require emissions checks. This check include a visual inspection, but depending on the knowledge-level of the technician - as well as their personal inclinations, for that matter...remember some work in the auto industry not because they have to, but because they genuinely like cars - they may not even give you any hassles for an obvious test-pipe, or they can give you all hell for having simply one less cat. than you're supposed to (in an '05 LGT, for example, you're supposed to have 3). There's known stations where the technicians are modded-car friendly, and there are known modifications that one can undertake to help the car get pass even the more stringent instructions.

Go to your local enthusiasts, they'll help guide you thorough this one.