Perrin Adjustable 25mm FSB Review

[Drift Monkey]

So after a minor amount of trouble getting it rom JSCSpeed, I finally got the bar I wanted...a nice 25mm FSB, bigger than the 23mm Cusco bar i was going to go with originally. Install was straight forward, everything fits right...and I didn't have any clearence/fitment issues (ya rly). I have it set on the stiffest setting which is something like 26-27mm effectively.

Driving impressions? Wow, much better turn in and mid to corner exit are much improved. The car doesn't understeer nearly as much now and the front really feels planted while cornering. Front traction is pretty nuts coming out of the corner, I have to relearn how to drive the car. I'm on stock struts since my front driver ksport got pwn3d (another thread) but the car still stays pretty flat, I'm impressed. The front sway made much more of a difference than my rear bar did! :cool:

[Fox06LegacyGT]

what rear bar do you have?

is the adjustable the best way to go so you can essentially set it to what you like (stiffer vs. softer)?

[Drift Monkey]

what rear bar do you have?

is the adjustable the best way to go so you can essentially set it to what you like (stiffer vs. softer)?
I have the Perrin 3 hole adjustable 22mm RSB. I like adjustables because I can set it on the stiffer setting...but yes it gives you room for adjustment which is always nice to have.

[NALegacy]

mmm...cant wait till I can finally get a FSB that fits without cutting/grinding off parts of my car:rolleyes:

[Drift Monkey]

w00t!

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[Dookie]

Well since you started this thread, I figured this would be a great place to continue our little discussion on FSB vs. RSB. So, to confirm my point of view I talked to my buddy, who I highly respect in the racing industry. First of all, here's a little background about my buddy.

He is the head designer (R&D, CAD) for Bilstein Shocks based outta San Diego, raced on the national auto-x curcuit for the past 10 yrs. with numerous top placings. Is currently putting a road race team together.

This is what he has to say about the RSB:
"As for the Sube, just do an adjustable rear bar. Don't change the front. You could also add just a touch of rear toe-out to improve the turn in response of the car but with a good rear sway bar this may not be what you want. Any tweaks of alignment will affect tire wear in long run as you know. The all wheel drive cars are for the most part just like FWD regarding the basic setup principles and driving style. The difference is the size and weight of the car itself and when it understeers, it just gets worse because the rear-driven wheels are pushing."



Food for thought.

[ih8vtec13]

wow dookie you are late for this party :lol:

[Drift Monkey]

Well since you started this thread, I figured this would be a great place to continue our little discussion on FSB vs. RSB. So, to confirm my point of view I talked to my buddy, who I highly respect in the racing industry. First of all, here's a little background about my buddy.

He is the head designer (R&D, CAD) for Bilstein Shocks based outta San Diego, raced on the national auto-x curcuit for the past 10 yrs. with numerous top placings. Is currently putting a road race team together.

This is what he has to say about the RSB:
"As for the Sube, just do an adjustable rear bar. Don't change the front. You could also add just a touch of rear toe-out to improve the turn in response of the car but with a good rear sway bar this may not be what you want. Any tweaks of alignment will affect tire wear in long run as you know. The all wheel drive cars are for the most part just like FWD regarding the basic setup principles and driving style. The difference is the size and weight of the car itself and when it understeers, it just gets worse because the rear-driven wheels are pushing."



Food for thought.
Tell that to all the national STi guys running huge FSB and NO RSB.

[SubieChik]

Who cares? :argue: Put a bar in the middle and it won't be in the front or rear....in fact call it a MSB (middle sway bar).

[Drift Monkey]

Who cares? :argue: Put a bar in the middle and it won't be in the front or rear....in fact call it a MSB (middle sway bar).
What's that? You wanna see my middle sway bar? :lol:

[Dookie]

wow dookie you are late for this party :lol:

It's never too late to party.....

:evilbanana: :banana: :evilbanana: :banana:

[SubieChik]

Oh is that what I said?? :lol:

[Drift Monkey]

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16242876

Good reading here, especially the second post...

[SubieChik]

Damn gov't computers....can't get to nasioc...have to read when I get home :(:tdown:

[Drift Monkey]

Damn gov't computers....can't get to nasioc...have to read when I get home :(:tdown: Why? I'll just post it here! :lol:

What size swaybar should I get?

1. Consider your other modifications.

If you already have a very stiff car (for instance, you’re running coilovers with very high springrates) you will have less body roll than someone with a softly sprung car. As such you will not need as big a swaybar for the same effect. Suspension tuning is very much a black art. Some like to go with softer springs and stiffer swaybars, some like to go with stiffer springs and relatively soft swaybars, and some like to make everything massively stiff and see what happens.

Also, if you are running a fairly aggressive alignment (for instance, lots of negative camber up front) you might not need as big a swaybar for the same reasons.

The point is - your suspension is a SYSTEM. You cannot make decisions in a vacuum – the whole system must be considered when you are changing things. This also means you should think about upgrading both of your swaybars rather than just the rear or just the front.

2. Consider your starting point.

Most of the turbo Imprezas come with a 20mm front swaybar and a 13-20 (??) mm rear swaybar. Wagons typically come with smaller rears than sedans.

3. Consider your application.

First, here’s an excellent post by Turn In Concepts on the subject:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...96&postcount=5 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15503396&postcount=5)
Quote:
As for what size bars to get, and this is my opinion based on experience, and is in consideration of solid bars (that's what I have the most experience with, and it makes for an easier comparison to stock).

For the rear bar - 22mm is good. You can pull off 24mm but the inside tire gets too light, and you lose traction in hard turns if you are on the stock springs. If you are considering going to 24mm or larger then you really really need to consider upgrading your springs first. See, the springs will stiffen not only the ride, but will also increase roll resistance. Now, stiffer springs does not have to mean a crappy ride. If you do your homework, and get a spring that a) doesn't have a stupidly low drop and b) are good for the operating range of your struts then the ride will feel just fine.

For the front - traditional thinking has held that if you want to fix understeer you want the rear to step out more. While this does work to some extent, I feel this is the wrong way to approach it. Sure CONTROLLABLE oversteer with the back stepping out is fun, and a good thing, but the front is still going wide. As part of this traditional thinking folks scream get a bigger rear bar, and leave the front alone or go smaller. I have to disagree on this. Here's why -

First, let's look at the technical reason. The dynamic camber curve for the mcpherson strut setup sucks. It just does. That's a tradeoff of running this type of setup, and all setups have their good and bad points. What happens is this - you enter a turn at speed. Your ourside front corner gets loaded with weight. That weight compresses the suspension. When the suspension compresses the camber of that wheel, where that tire is loaded, rolls toward positive camber. If you're running very little static negative camber this will actually start to make the inside edge of the tire light, reducing the width of your effective contact patch that resists lateral acceleration. This lose of traction results in that "push" or understeer condition. This is why folks who are more into performance run a decent amount of negative front camber. Sure, they give up some straight line accel and decel grip doing this, but that's more than offset by the fact that they can maximize the width of the contact patch in turns to help resist higher slip angles due to lateral acceleration. If you lower the car any with springs or coilovers that camber curve gets worse. Oh, and the added bumpsteer sucks too. Fortunately the fine fellows at 6Gun have figured out a way to help that, but that's for a different long post I'll most like use to answer somebodies questions in the next few days.

So, what they heck the the point in my saying all that? Well, let's get back to the front swaybar. The front swaybar will increase the effective spring rate of the wheel without effecting the ride spring rate. In other words, it will help keep the suspension from compressing so much at the loaded corner. Less compression means less loss of camber. Less loss of camber means that you can tune to, and maximize the contact patch of the tire to resist that push. Now, one of the things you need to consider - just like you can't make something from nothing, you can't make a good contact patch if you have nothing to give it to begin. Because the suspension will still compress some you need some negative camber in the front to start with. See the bajillion threads on alignment specs for where to start.

Now, for the second item I'd like to bring up something I've thought long and hard about for a long time. For ease I'll call it the philosphical side of the front suspension. Here's what we've got - a car that understeers or pushes quite a bit. Sure, you could throw a big bar in the rear and get the rear end to step out to help eliminate that understeer, but I feel that this is the wrong approach. The front of the car is still pushing, but the rear just happens to be stepping out at a faster rate than the front. The net result is a wider than what I feel is necessary lateral travel of the car. In other words, the rear is whipping around to point the front of the car where you want it to go, but the front of the car is still sliding sideways and taking the whole thing sideways making for a wider path than really is needed.

See, this stems from my philosophy that move oversteer does not necessarily mean less understeer. The front is still pushing. I feel the fix for this is to setup the front end of the car to truly reduce understeer as much as possible. This will make the front tuck in more, and while your tires will be resisting more lateral acceleration taking more grip from straight line acceleration (think traction circle), you'll be able to unwind from the turn faster thus getting you back toward the acceleration portion sooner than your competition. In other words, you'll be able to drive a tighter, and more controlled line.

Additionally, by reducing understeer as much as possible you won't have to set up the car for so much oversteer. This will also lead to more control, a tighter line, and the ability to accelerate sooner.

Now, that's great an all, but if you're looking for a simple answer as to what size bar to get then here it is (I'm giving these in terms of whiteline bars as I am most familiar with them):

Rear - 22mm to 24mm, but if you go to 24mm then you really want to think hard about upgrading your springs. If you go higher than 24mm then you are taking the wrong approach and trying to fix shortcomings of your springs with swaybars, and this is not the right way to do it. Get a proper spring for what you do, and then fine tune with a swaybar.

Front - for the street and mild autocross, and mild track work look at 24mm up front. If you start to get into it more then 26mm is good (WL makes a 24-26 adjustable front). These are also very good sizes if you are not a smooth driver as they won't make things too "darty" with super quick tuck of the front end into the apex. For autocross junkies or track whores who are smooth overall and can anticipate the "dartiness" then look at the 27 to 29mm front bar.

Now, two last thing on these considerations: You need a brand and size, and you need a vendor.

For the brand and size please do some research in the car parts review area. After receiving the parts you choose, and installing them please leave your feedback on them in the car parts review area so you can help others in the future.

The vendor part works the same way. Please research the vendors you are considering in the vendor review area. After the completion of the transaction please leave your feedback for that vendor in the vendor review area so that you can again help others in the future.

Today's message brought to you by the letter G and the number 32354956.
I tried but I really can’t say it any better than that. Thanks TiC!

One additional note – the bigger you go, the more likely it is that you’ll hear random clunking/popping noises from the front of your car. I think this generalization is true, but feel free to correct me http://images.nasioc.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

I’ve heard that a bigger front swaybar will make the car understeer. Is this true?

It is, and it isn’t. Basically, for our cars with their Macpherson strut configuration, the benefit that a front swaybar gives you in terms of managing camber under load outweighs the putting-too-much-weight-on-the-tire drawback.

DrBiggly has practiced this speech many times and has gotten pretty good at it:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=879235
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrBiggly
To answer your question directly, you get a +3 or +4 addition in front grip from the camber curve improvement but a -1 in front grip from the "additional weight on the tire" part of the equation that comes from having a larger bar, so overall traction in the front of the vehicle is increased. Of course body roll is decreased, but as a bonus turn-in is quicker.

The car feels like it is understeering less because the limit of grip is a lot higher, while in reality at the limit the car is actually understeering a bit more. Hence why some folks say the car understeers less on a bigger front bar, and then others who haven't tried it bust out the "book and GT4" knowledge and proclaim that a bigger front bar will make the car understeer more.

I *REALLY* recommend reading that thread. It’s an excellent discussion of the topic.

For a much longer post by DrBiggly about the front swaybar (i.e. if you don’t believe him and you think a bigger front swaybar is a bad idea for our cars), here is a longer version of that post:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...54&postcount=4 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10223154&postcount=4)

[SubieChik]

Wow that is a lot to read...

[Drift Monkey]

More:

Subarus in general have soft springs and high ride heights on McPherson struts.
Q: What purpose does this serve?
A: It gives some decent off-road capability and provides lots of travel on each corner, while giving a smoother and softer ride around town as well.

Q: Do softer springs have a drawback?
A: Well... Suspensions are fundamentally a system of compromises. While a Porsche has a McPherson strut suspension, it's certainly not off-road capable since it doesn't come from the factory higher off the ground and doesn't require the large amount of travel, thus it won't have the same types of drawbacks that WRX/Outback/STI/etc has for higher on-pavement performance. So the Subarus do suffer a bit on pavement in lacking grip that they would otherwise have if it weren't for a "You can do it all!" type of compromise.

Q: Why would a bigger front bar be better? Won't that create more understeer?
A: The answer is both yes and no. By technical definition, it will create more understeer just like the books and what I like to refer to as "typical tuning" or "game tuning" say it does. (i.e. bar gets bigger at one end of the car, then traction is reduced at that same end of the car.) However, most folks typically don't feel it on a larger front bar for Subarus since it is only at the absolute limit of traction. When folks say that a larger front bar reduced understeer on their car, they are right in the sense that the car doesn't push (or understeer) as easily as it used to. Essentially the larger front bar raised the limits of grip up front.

Q: Ok, so if it gained understeer then how did the larger front bar gain grip?
A: The McPherson strut setup on Subarus gives a large range of travel, but it doesn't go straight up and down when it compresses from hard cornering, it travels on a slight curve. This curve affects the contact patch of the tire (i.e. how much of the tire is flat on the road surface at any given point) and for lateral lean of the tire, it's known as a camber curve. Reducing bodyroll of the vehicle through either springs or swaybars will reduce the bad end of the camber curve, which typically causes the tire to lean outwards and under hard cornering with a stock setup one is basically chewing the edges of the tire. (Note: The camber curve starts out by adding a little negative camber, but then, depending upon ride height and amount of bodyroll for the particular car's setup, goes a lot positive. Which is bad. I'm dealing here with hard cornering where one is more likely to notice suspension improvements and thus I'm ignoring the initial part of the camber curve since for performance driving it won't come into play much on a Subaru.)

Maximum cornering grip is not attained by using the very edge of one's tire, but rather as much as possible of the tire. This is why racecars have front tires that have quite a bit of negative camber (leaned in towards the car.) This way when the racecar rolls from weight transfer (bodyroll is caused by weight transfer, not the other way around) the tire ends up basically flat. In a street car, the same amount of negative camber isn't as necessary so one will find that a slight amount of negative camber is a better balance since one isn't cornering flat out around a racetrack as would a racecar. The goal is 0 camber during a corner. Racecars achieve it, street cars often do not for a multitude of reasons. But we try to keep it as close to 0 (i.e. perfectly flat or wheel straight up and down) as much as possible mid-corner.

So, preventing bodyroll will reduce strut travel, which will keep the camber curve from causing too much reduction in negative camber and going into positive camber, thus causing greater traction up front in the car and less "understeer" (by the seat of pants/speed definition.)

Q: So if the traction up front is greater, how does it cause more understeer by technical definition?
A: By technical definition, the front tires will still give way before the rear. In other words, even though the limit of traction is higher, once that limit is reached the front tires will give up before the rear because with a larger front swaybar, one is reducing grip by loading up more weight on the tire that is doing the most work. The larger bar reduces bodyroll, but in compromise fashion does it by loading even more weight onto the tire that was already doing a lot of work to start with. More weight means reduced grip. So we get say a -1 on grip from the weight loading on the front bar so that it's slightly less likely to rotate (have the rear come around) but a +3 on overall grip of the limits of the car so the car understeers only at a notably higher speed than before. That's how you get both a "yes and no" as an answer to "Does a bigger front bar cause more understeer."

Q: What about a rear bar? Does a bigger rear bar cause more oversteer?
A: Yes. A bigger rear bar changes the balance of the car in a more predictable fashion. It reduces bodyroll (for the whole car, as does a front bar, no silly-putty chassis produced these days, much less the super-stiff Imprezas of late) both front and rear. Grip goes up in both places due to a reduction in camber curve up front from less body roll but the weight loading in the rear from the bigger bar will cause it to lose more traction than gained (the rear doesn't have a camber curve like the front, and under load changes by only a minimal amount.) Thus the cornering limits are raised and by both definitions above, there is less understeer.

Hope this helps. http://images.nasioc.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

-Biggly

Final note:
Upon getting a larger front bar, most folks report higher grip (sometimes stated as less understeer.) The side benefits to the larger front bar are a quicker turn-in, and a more stable car when pushing it at the limits. The car is less likely to snap-oversteer with a larger front bar. Basically, the car can be tossed about with more confidence than an increase in rear bar since it typically isn't as likely to rotate unexpectedly under quicker inputs.

[Dookie]

Once again this just proves another opinion, as the author states: In my opinion, my philosophy.

I prefer a stiffer rear end to allow the back end to breakout. You prefer a stiffer front end which gives you a more predicable point of oversteer.

Even the author states that if you stiffen the front a higher chance of oversteer. Stiffer rear gives you a higher chance of understeer.

[Drift Monkey]

If you're too hardheaded to even read any of the info and try it yourself to see what results you get after trying a FSB, then just get your RSB and get on with life. :lol:

[Dookie]

:rofl: ^^^^Dillhole^^^^ :rofl:

[Drift Monkey]

:rofl:

[Ray_sti]

man.. you guys are sure looney.

[SubieChik]

I just got my front strut tower bar in the mail on monday. :mad: No good! I got all excited and went to put it on but took a good look at it and realized they sent me two drivers side brackets. :eek: Ugh. Now I have to wait for them to ship me the other right one. Damn eBay! :lol: (And yes I am an eBay junkie :rolleyes: )

[Drift Monkey]

strut tower bar? ricer! :lol:

Update on the bar with coilovers on....verdict: :D

[SubieChik]

strut tower bar? ricer! :lol:



RICER Definition: Any oriental import car that has been modified for no real performance gain.
Ricer: An oriental car with no engine mods, a body kit, and possibly stickers. Made to look fast.
Not a ricer: An oriental car with a fully built engine, drive train, and suspension regardless of appearance.

<~~~~No body kit, no fart cans, no multicolored body parts, no windshield decal, and deinately not made to look fast.

<~~~~No ricer.

:D



Funny website: http://blog.tooreal.net/articles/ricercars/

[Drift Monkey]

oriental? who uses that word anymore? :lol:

[SubieChik]

Ramen does

[Drift Monkey]

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f111/K614/thface_racist.gif

[Bskey]

Ha! Waisis!

I have an oriental trading company by my house, and an oriental rug shop.

I always wondered about those eBay strut tower bars. Farmerjohn got a set and liked them, but swapped for JDM due to concernes over build quality. Plus you cant upgrade your TMIC with that on.

[Drift Monkey]

Ha! Waisis!

I have an oriental trading company by my house, and an oriental rug shop.

I always wondered about those eBay strut tower bars. Farmerjohn got a set and liked them, but swapped for JDM due to concernes over build quality. Plus you cant upgrade your TMIC with that on.
Who cares about a TMIC? :lol:

[Ray_sti]

So do these CLUNK or NOT ?

[Bskey]

I dont remember having problems unles I was lowered too much (Tien S).

[Drift Monkey]

I think all bars will clunk if you don't put enough grease. Doing that little bushing mod might help too..

[TSi+WRX]

I always wondered about those eBay strut tower bars. Farmerjohn got a set and liked them, but swapped for JDM due to concernes over build quality. Plus you cant upgrade your TMIC with that on.

The one that I've got is actually a hand-me-down from a .com'er and fellow Ohioan, Tronix.

To me, I don't drive hard enough to ever notice whether or not if it improves things even just a tiny bit - my suspicion is that it might, particularly with super-aggressive street-driving, but that for the true AutoX and track crowd, that such bars may further tamper with suspension variables that it becomes undesireable. For the latter crowd, a better-materials, better-engineered bar would definitely be the way to go, if one were interested in using one, that is.

I basically use mine as a way to disguise and loom wiring across the engine bay, and, of course, for bling. :p:lol:

Assuming that an aftermarket TMIC fits under the factory engine cover (even if one had to trim the cover), then this particular e-bay bar would still be compatible for fitment. Here, I think that the fit issue is just a variable that has to do with both the vehicle itself (its critical tolerances) as well as with the build of the bar, which, on eBay, is often hard to discern.

[Ray_sti]

IF you have upgraded sways, proper Strut bars make a noticeable difference. It finishes linking the front suspension, and the car is noticeably smoother in turns. I'd get the subaru strut braces as they fit the best.. I have the tiens on the sti and they do NOT work well with any aftermarket tmic...

[TSi+WRX]

IF you have upgraded sways, proper Strut bars make a noticeable difference.

Exactly - a proper one would be the way to go - and although the various eBay and off-market replicas may even be copies of decent designs, their materials may still be questionable, and indeed, proper would be a big concer. I know that our local AutoXers are really into getting good bars, or none at all.

I think that this is a point a lot of people miss. Experienced guys and gals like you know that a proper bar is the way to go - as well as the reasons for installing one - but I think a lot of noobs like me just go for one which looks good, and just EXPECTS it to work some kind of magic, when it really doesn't happen that way.


I'd get the subaru strut braces as they fit the best.. I have the tiens on the sti and they do NOT work well with any aftermarket tmic...

This may be a bit different with our LGTs, especially with the case of the cosmetic engine/TMIC cover. I don't know how well the JDM OEM Subaru ones fit, particularly with the engine/TMIC cover, if one wishes to retain that.

It seems that with the popular aftermarket TMICs currently on-market for the LGT, the AVO is more likely to allow for the cover to fit back on either without or with minimal modification, which should translate into easy fit of the front strut bar, provided that the bar in-question fits well with the factory-OEM/stock TMIC and cosmetic cover without trouble. The Perrin is known to require more trimming of the cosmetic cover, but since this is a concern of that aspect of the fit, it should still hold true to logic that any bar which fits the factory-OEM/stock configuration fine should also clear this combo as well.

And since even $50 eBay bars can fit well, it seems that there's just a lot of unique variability here....unfortunately. :(

[Ray_sti]

Well if u want good bars, contact SpunAutosprts, they usually have good deals on Cusco/Tien Bars. Whiteline also has a good bar for the legacy.
The Lgt has a better rear suspension than the STI so a rear bar wont do much. But with larger front sways, especially 25mm, you will be doing your chasis a HUGE favor by bracing the strut mounts..

[TSi+WRX]

^ I will definitely take your recommendation and keep it in-mind! :) Thanks! :)

I'm not quite yet sure how I want to tackle the suspension side of my equation - for now, I'm simply "looking good" with the appx. 1" drop afforded by iON progressives, all the way around (and yes, I like the way the rear looks with the iONs - reminiscent of BMWs, etc.), but I both know and can feel that the spring rate is not at all well-matched with my stock struts. I'm simply sitting this out until said struts wear out, and will, at that time, either move-on to find a complimentary strut, or, alternatively, will move on to an aftermarket coil-over setup, which would allow me also the side-benefit of being able to adjust ride-height to compensate for our not infrequent winter storms here in NE-Ohio.

Until that time, I am probably not going to pursue either front or rear sways, and will more than likely address this area of the suspension setup after everything else is set.

For an easy-going driver like me, even the iONs, paired as-is with the ill-matched factory struts and without additional help in terms of roll control, still feels decent enough. :o :)

[Drift Monkey]

The front brace will do next to nothing...I still haven't got one, but I might for a wee bit of bling. :lol:

However, the rear bar does absoultely nothing. Our rear suspension is not strut type, it's multi-link. Bracing the rear struts does nothing.

[TSi+WRX]

My locals also take the other (i.e. Dookie and Ray_sti's) approach - and run a heavy front bar.

I honestly don't know if this may just be one of those things that may be a point of academic debate, when it comes to the "science/why" of things, but ultimately comes down to a personal-preference/driving-habits issue when the rubber meets tarmac.

[Bskey]

I want to make sure our terminoligy is right.... the top bar is the strut bar, the lower bar is the sway.... DM, I'm not sure how you can say the front sway does nothing. I notices notable improvment in cornering when I installed mine!

[NALegacy]

DM typed wrong. He is far from one to say that the big 25mm front SWAY bar he is running does nothing. He is indeed talking about the STRUT bar. Stupid monkey can't type...like how he runs 18" wheels with 17" tires:lol:

[Dookie]

^^^:lol: :lol:

[NALegacy]

^^^:lol: :lol:

I only speaks da troof!

[Drift Monkey]

DM typed wrong. He is far from one to say that the big 25mm front SWAY bar he is running does nothing. He is indeed talking about the STRUT bar. Stupid monkey can't type...like how he runs 18" wheels with 17" tires:lol:
I may not be able to type, but I know what I'm talking about damnit! :mad:

:lol:

[Ray_sti]

lol... the more you tie down the suspension, (Fatter sway bars) the more stress you put on the individual strut mounts, hence causing individual mountpoint frame/chasis twist... HOWEVER if u tie it down, you complete the 'circle' and the whole unit, (strut1->sway->strut2->strutbar->strut1) work as system, transfering the force, essentially keeping the structure in tact..

[Dookie]

^ +1 Well said.