300 whp/ 300ft lbs of torque

[EMTjay]

Starting with a bone stock 06 legacy GT what do you think a ball park parts/labor estimate would be to get me 300 whp/ 300ft lbs of torque?

I am useless when it comes to turning a wrnech so most of the mods will be done by TDC in NH. I am planning on an AP for engine management and possible a perrin tmic, cattless UP/ catted down, cbe.

what other mods would I be looking at to get to or near these numbers? Do you think 5 grand is a moddest budget for these figures? Thanks in advance for your advice...

Jay

[john]

You should easily come in under $5k for 300/300, especially if you don't mind going with some used parts.

I'm looking for 350-375 whp and so far have spent just under $4k, but I'm doing the work myself.

[urabus]

personlly i would do header, uppipe, downpipe, exhaust,(no cats) cai, and the ap and u will have over 300. i wouldn't get a tmic unless u get a difrent turbo. Or get perrin fmic and big turbo and u will have loads of hp

[EMTjay]

Originally Posted by urabus

personlly i would do header, uppipe, downpipe, exhaust,(no cats) cai, and the ap and u will have over 300. i wouldn't get a tmic unless u get a difrent turbo. Or get perrin fmic and big turbo and u will have loads of hp

how important is the "no cats" part? I am affraid of going catless because this will also be a daily driver and Masssachusets Emission Inspections are pretty tough so I wouldnt want to fail and not be able to drive the car anymore.

[Dookie]

To go over 300whp, you'll need to be catless. Cats just add more pressure within the exhaust.

A possible alternative with keeping the cats on:

1) AP (a must)
2) High flow Cat pipes (more expensive route)
3) Free flow CBE
4) CAI
5) Lighten pullys
6) Lighten Flywheel


These are just a few off the top of my head.

[Bskey]

And upgrade the I/C. I blew the tabs off mine at about 275 WHP.

[TSi+WRX]

Use either AccessPORT or ECUTeK's EasyECU package - both will enable end-user reflashes of the vehicle's ECU.

This way, you can "convert" to a catted third/last section setup (this is easy to do, simply by taking out one easily accessed piece of piping, directly under the vehicle) for inspections. Unless your state's inspection techs are so well-knowledged (highly unlikely) that they know to look for the cat on the first section of the down-pipe, they'll see the factory third/last cat (which you've switched in), and you'll be fine.

Meanwile, for daily driving, use a combination of a good aftermarket "shorty" DP (with no cat in this first post-turbo section) and mate it to a test-pipe (thus deleting the last cat) to optimize power, while enabling a much more aggressive map.

Consider headers, particularly of the equal-length variety (yes, you'll lose much of your "Boxer-Rumble," I'm afraid, but it's good for the top-end). If this is your chosen route, it will likely also obliterate the expense for an aftermarket UP, particularly since many such header systems offer integrated solutions. If you're staying with the stock manifolds, getting them ported/polished/coated (this would be a good time to drill and tap for a proper EGT setup), along with the addition of an aftermarket cross-pipe and UP, should net you some cost-effective gains, but it won't be quite as spectacular as with a well-designed header assembly (either equal or unequal). Cost may be the deciding factor, here.

With respect to replacing the intercooler, a lot of this will depend on the turbo you choose (or, rather, choose to stay with). Certainly, initial cost outlay is to be factored-in, but you should also exercise a bit of foresight here and see if you will truly be satisfied at this power-level, and won't "outgrow" the popular aftermarket TMIC choices.

300 wHP / 300 wTQ is not an impossible mark to achieve, particularly given a generous dyno. Certainly, for those of us on a budget, a good bit of "homework" needs to be done in both the selection of parts as well as in their purchase (i.e. you may need to source some second-hand parts, or do some of the dirty work - porting/polishing - some of the easier installs, etc.... oh, BTW, look to your local Subaru enthusiast club for "cheap labor," a lot of those good folks will do much of the work, particularly simple things like the bolt-on mods, for just a couple of beers or burgers, or at SIGNIFICANTLY discounted rates).

Best of luck!

[urabus]

Installing header, uppipe, dp and exhaust arent that hard. Im 18 and had never worked on a car before and i put mine on with very litle trouble.It took more time putting the bolts in bags and marking them than actually putting parts on. And i didnt have any airtools

[TSi+WRX]

^ Well said.

Like brother DM once said to me - for encouragement -> The UP/DP install isn't difficult at all, just potentially time-consuming (seized/stripped bolts, etc.). As long as you have your tools lined-up and potential common replacement components (a handful of the proper bolts) ready at-hand, it's a relatively easy job that any back-yard shade-tree greasmonkey wrench can do in a few hours.

I took 8 hours to do mine - from jack-in/jackstanding to test-drive. The only reason it took so long was that my friend and I took our leisurely time doing it (we also had to skip out to get one more tool). We had an hour lunch in-between, and even entertained another friend who stopped-by for a chat. We made a fun experience out of it.

Like urabus said, the UP/DP - including header or manifold-and-cross-pipe - replacement, as well as the cat-back (or turbo-back) installation is something that can easily be done with proper hand-tools and a jack with a pair of trusty jackstands. If budget is a concern, look to do these items yourself, as professional-level quality work is easily achieved with these simple bolt-ons, as long as you took your time. If you're still anxious about the work, look first to your local Subaru enthusiast club for private-party/hobbyist help. A lot of times, guys would do this kind of simple stuff for burgers and beers.