Crucial Downpipe Install! - LegacyGT.org
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:02 PM   #1
jedimaster
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Default Crucial Downpipe Install!

OK, so here's what my downpipe install was like. I was really pleased with the quality of the piece.

Here's what it looks like:



Here's a couple of shots of the flanges:







Soooo much better looking in person- a real shame to have to put it on the car and get it dirty!

OK, so now to the install part:

This is the stock setup with upper heatshield removed:



Basically, you remove the 5 bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo, along with one that bolts the downpipe to the transmission and the two that bolt the downpipe to the midpipe.

That's a total of 8 bolts- should be easy, but with 9600 miles on the car along with the typical Subaru 500 pound gorillas putting our cars together, a couple shots of WD40 were necessary to get the dern things loose.

Here's a shot of the stock and Crucial downpipes together- notice that the Crucial is teh Sexay!



Here they are side by side again- notice that the stocker has a blank plate, whereas the Crucial has not only the plate not as a blank, but also a divorced wastegate!



Here's the real culprit on the stocker, the catalytic convertor- very restricive!

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Old 04-07-2006, 01:04 PM   #2
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I would suggest using PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench rather than WD-40. Those downpipe to turbo bolts have a nasty habit of seizing, even on a car with very little mileage. Ask me how I know
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Old 04-07-2006, 02:30 PM   #3
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How do you know? WD40 did the trick, but you're right there are better solutions.
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Old 04-12-2006, 01:01 PM   #4
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After an hour of cranking on the one hidden bolt with various wrenches and sockets, with it soaked in WD40, and half rounded off I decided to try a different approach.

I couldn't get anything to seat properly on the bolt. Maybe the XT/LGT are different, but the nut is just too damn close to the DP, and all my sockets were too thick-walled. Except my 1/4" drive ones. But, as you can imagine, a 1/4" drive ratchet aint gonna do much to get off the nuts that the 500 lb gorilla at Fuji Heavy puts on So, with tired and bloody hands (I left the intercooler on and cut the **** out of them [this was before I was smart enough to buy some mechanics gloves]) I found a pipe to put on the end of the 1/4" drive ratchet and finally broke the damn thing free. I'm just lucky I didn't shear the stud off the turbo.

Downpipe install - ~4 hours. If I could do it over again, 2 1/2 hours, tops.

Lesson learned, have the right tools for the job
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Last edited by jsh139; 04-13-2006 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 04-12-2006, 01:20 PM   #5
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Anyone who is doing any installs, whether it be suspension, exhaust, etc PB blaster is a must!
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Old 04-12-2006, 03:14 PM   #6
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I think I used an open end wrench for that particular nut.
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Old 04-12-2006, 05:54 PM   #7
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Soak them all with PB Blaster, have a beer, than I use an 18" breaker bar with 4" and 6" extensions where needed and 1/2" drive six point impact sockets. The LGT has a bit more room to work than an STi, that's for sure. We have it down to about two hours for the LGT/OBXT (full length DP), but we get to cheat since we use Steve's lift

Whatever you do....avoid the famous last words..... "this is going easy so far". Guaranteed if you say that, the next bolt you come to will kick you in the balls.
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Old 04-12-2006, 08:29 PM   #8
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PB Blaster > Liquid Wrench > WD40
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Old 04-13-2006, 06:24 AM   #9
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When you remove the catted stock DP and replace it, what happens when I have to take the car in every other year for emissions?
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Old 04-13-2006, 06:31 AM   #10
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the stock DP is two piece....one cat in each. Replacing the short section off the turbo still leaves one rather efficient cat further away from the turbo. The close-coupled cat is for cold start emissions - as long as you have the stock third cat in place and bring the car in warmed up, you will pass a sniffer test.
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Old 04-13-2006, 06:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patagonian GT
the stock DP is two piece....one cat in each. Replacing the short section off the turbo still leaves one rather efficient cat further away from the turbo. The close-coupled cat is for cold start emissions - as long as you have the stock third cat in place and bring the car in warmed up, you will pass a sniffer test.
That's good news as this will be the first year I try to pass in NY. I'll take it out for a nice spin before the inspection
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Old 04-13-2006, 07:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimaster
I think I used an open end wrench for that particular nut.
Oh, I got an open end on it just fine. But, it wasn't long enough to get the needed leverage to break the nut free. Had I used PB Blaster, I'm confident the open end would have been enough.
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Old 04-13-2006, 07:49 AM   #13
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DM is catless in TX FTW!
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Old 04-13-2006, 08:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patagonian GT
the stock DP is two piece....one cat in each. Replacing the short section off the turbo still leaves one rather efficient cat further away from the turbo. The close-coupled cat is for cold start emissions - as long as you have the stock third cat in place and bring the car in warmed up, you will pass a sniffer test.
Excellent! Thanks for the info man! This is really my first delve into modifying a turbo car and I'm trying to avoid causing myself too many headaches. It's been a little bit of a trip figuring out what I can upgrade and what is available thus far.
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Old 04-13-2006, 11:11 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsh139
Oh, I got an open end on it just fine. But, it wasn't long enough to get the needed leverage to break the nut free. Had I used PB Blaster, I'm confident the open end would have been enough.
I just used my special 250 fat pounds of force
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Old 04-18-2006, 04:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimaster
I just used my special 250 fat pounds of force
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Old 03-24-2007, 07:55 AM   #17
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+1 for the Crucial hash pipe. Mine fit perfect on an auto!!

Thanks J.



Few more bolts and you could have the turbo and up-pipe off.

Took me 1hr 15mins to do turbo/DP and IC, but I have done it eleventy-thousand XXs. I ripped out one stud on the back or OEM turbine housing, so what. I'll use a new bolt.

On EVERY subaru, there is one bastard nut.

When swapping a turbo like ours, being bolted to the IC, I loosened my compressor housing to have a passive fit at the mating surfaces of the flanges.

Don't assume that the turbo covers are "clocked" 100% perfect, and they even may have loose nutz out of the box! Go ahead and loosen both covers to re-clock.... help install and performace.

Mark it, then remove turbo and tighten, re-install for the final time with sealant, etc.

I did this without the oil drain tube on the first time around to make it an easy fit.


Regarding the oil drain tube, I NEVER reuse the spring loaded clip on the rubber hose. The turbo drain tube has a decent bump around it, and it's a very tight seal anyway. I only leave one on the tube...whichever one stays when I yank up the turbo.


When using new gaskets....run it a while, then re-torque the turbine nozzle bolts to make sure you are getting all you paid for.

Last edited by turbo2nr; 03-24-2007 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 03-24-2007, 02:44 PM   #18
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Turbo2nr- does Crucial still make a third cat eliminator pipe? I have a state inspection in July, but would love to have a pipe like that to swap in and out during inspection time.
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Old 03-25-2007, 01:14 AM   #19
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Make one?, if Jeremy doesn't have one.

Knock out a stock cat, buy cheap from someone.

I would also like to do this.

I have one more cat left. Drag racing season is here, I wanna try a little C-16 in my wife's car and crank it up. Gotta get it out for the lead.
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Old 03-25-2007, 05:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimaster
Turbo2nr- does Crucial still make a third cat eliminator pipe? I have a state inspection in July, but would love to have a pipe like that to swap in and out during inspection time.
^ In so far as I know, Jeremy is still doing it. Not sure about available/ready stock, though.

I've been thinking about one - mainly as I think after-fires are cool , and I'd also like a little more pop and burble from my exhaust on the over-run, too. I'm more than likely not going to gain much power from it as my tune won't be optimized for that.

The two things that keep hanging me up are:

(1) The wifey - all of my previous rides were completely cat-less, and I know she hates that smell. I've promised to keep Winky somewhat civil for her, so I'd feel bad in this respect.

(2) Equipment violations - I live in a densely urban area, and I'll see LEOs on my tail (not to pull me over, just that they're in-traffic with me) about twice a week or so..... I'd hate to accidentally fireball and get an equipment violation ticket, even if it's just a "fix it" warning (one reason that I rig my countermeasures as I have done is so that I avoid these annoying circumstances, to me, "time is money").


-----

BTW: jedi - totally off-topic, but have you read Stephen King's _Cell_ yet? I just picked it up at the library earlier this week, and I'm about half-way through (which is pretty good for me, as I'm a slow reader, and also only get time to read right before I turn-in for the night), and I'm totally hooked on it. It's not quite about "zombies" in the traditional sense, but I think you'll like it too.
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