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Old 09-03-2009, 07:43 PM   #1
kagenmateer
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Default Is my door trigger defective?

The indicator light on my dash will sporadically say that my right rear door is open. At the same time this started, my battery has a small, but steady drain on it such that it will die if I don't drive it for more than a day or so. I ordered a new door trigger for that door because they're only 8 bucks, and I go pick it up tomorrow morning and will throw it in. I also have an alarm with a bunch of goodies on it and I'm worried that is the root of the problem.

So my question is: Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:38 PM   #2
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I never had a problem like that. Is your alarm tied in2 the "door open" indicator?
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:41 PM   #3
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They're always tied into the door triggers so the alarm knows to go off when a door is opened while it's armed.
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:01 PM   #4
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I replaced the door trigger and the problem is still there

Now I get to diagnose it, this oughta be a blast!
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:19 PM   #5
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I never really got in2 car alarms.

I remember like 10 years ago I came out 2 my '98 Grand Prix GTP after playin

basketball 4 a couple hrs and the trunk was unlocked and open enuf to show

in the display.

Nothin was missing/damaged so I guess the factory alarm scared 'em away.

That's the only time I can remember any car I've had bein "compromised".
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:26 PM   #6
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I had something similar, except all my amp wires were hanging out the trunk with the amp no longer attached. lol
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:04 PM   #7
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So I just had to replace the factory battery because it wouldn't hold a charge anymore ($100+ ), and the new DieHard hasn't died yet, so I'll know soon if it was a coincidence that the factory battery started dying at the same time my door ajar indicator starting popping up.

How many of you guys have already replaced your battery? (I know you just did Hav)
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Old 10-11-2009, 06:20 PM   #8
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^ Not yet, but I will do so before the dead of winter sets in, this year.

I'm still on the OEM, which was put in-place in '04 (June '04 DOB on this one) - I've got a lot of accessories, but nothing that's heavy-duty on the draw.
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:15 PM   #9
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I swapped mine out about 3 months ago.
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:35 PM   #10
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By choice or because it began to fail?
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagenmateer
By choice or because it began to fail?
^ For me, it's by choice, but I fear it might go some time this winter - so it's just to be proactive.
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagenmateer
By choice or because it began to fail?
It was failing, and I didn't want to have to swap it in winter as I have to remove some IC plumbing in order to remove the battery.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:59 PM   #13
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Interesting.

Something else I want to confirm, if I may. I know I've asked this before, but I just want to double check... if I don't do any resistor mods when replacing my UP and DP, the AP will clear any resulting CEL's, right? I won't have sensors or anything in my UP or DP, and that's okay, right?
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:15 AM   #14
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^ IIRC, that's correct.

I'd do the UP resistor, though, just as an additional peace-of-mind thing, but since you're covered with the Cobb map, it should be something that you don't have to do "right-away."
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:50 AM   #15
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hmm...Why the UP and not the DP? More important? Just curious.
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:13 AM   #16
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^ Only the UP has the EGT, which is what the resistor mod fixes.

The DP's codes, if they were elicited somehow, wouldn't send the car into hysterics as much as the UP-EGT related CEL/DTC would. When either of the two most likely potential post-turbo cat-related codes are thrown, it just means the hassle of having no cruise-control function, until you've addressed it.
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:31 PM   #17
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Does anyone have pictures of the resistor mod? I've got the concept, but I'd like to see a pic or two also. I searched the .com and can't seem to find pics. After reading all about it again, I've decided you're right (TSI) and I'm going to do it as a safety backup to the AP.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:09 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagenmateer
So I just had to replace the factory battery because it wouldn't hold a charge anymore ($100+ ), and the new DieHard hasn't died yet, so I'll know soon if it was a coincidence that the factory battery started dying at the same time my door ajar indicator starting popping up.

How many of you guys have already replaced your battery? (I know you just did Hav)
Update -

Just replaced with AutoZone Duralast Gold.

640 CCA, with a weight of 38 lbs. 8-year warranty, full replacement within the first three, pro-rated thereafter. $89 with a $12 core fee.

I don't mind the weight, it's the CCA that I'm after, for a daily driver here in NE-Ohio. I've had experience with their battery warranties, and I know they're very good about it, with no questions asked. A

Also, this was among top-rated batteries (2008), in Consumer Reports.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:17 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagenmateer
Does anyone have pictures of the resistor mod? I've got the concept, but I'd like to see a pic or two also. I searched the .com and can't seem to find pics. After reading all about it again, I've decided you're right (TSI) and I'm going to do it as a safety backup to the AP.
Sorry for the late reply, bro. I don't know how I missed this question. I only found it by looking back for your original battery question.

In any case:

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine...istor-mod.html

As to where it goes, trace the wire coming from the EGT of the factory UP. That'll lead back to where it couples into the harness on the passenger's side, near the strut tower. Unplug that, and that's where you'll want to stick the resistor, one for each end, just like in that post above.

I then taped it in place with strips of electrical tape, and topped it off with heat-reflective tape.

I'm still on the same resistor that I put in there, back in the fall of 2005.
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Last edited by TSi+WRX; 10-26-2009 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:10 PM   #20
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^^^ Thanks man! I should have updated this sooner...I'm welding in a spark-plug defouler tomorrow, so I'll use your link if that doesn't work. This means stage 2 tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And the new battery has been great so far! So it was a coincidence that the battery started dying at the same time the doortrigger began to malfunction. That indicator still says that door is open. It's possible that it does draw on the battery, but that it can't phase the brand new, bigger battery. I ran a lot of wires down the passenger side of the car for the amps, so I'm gonna see if a wire got pinched somewhere. I've been putting it off.

Oh, and I punked out and put the factory airbox back in to play it safe on AFR's. So I'll be Cobb stage 2 for a while.
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